Over the Counter Acne Treatment Products That Work

Over the counter acne treatment products typically include acne or spot treatments, cleansers and washes, moisturizers, lotions, pads and wipes, masks and strips, shaving creams, and toners and astringents.

They are found in any convenience store. They are advertised on TV, in newspapers, magazines, on the internet, and in flyers. They are probably the most common way that people battle acne.

So how do you know what over the counter acne treatment you should use?

Keep reading – I’ll share with you some simple, yet powerful information that most folks unfortunately don’t take the time to find out.

Benzoyl Peroxide the Bacteria Slayer

• works best for moderate to moderately severe acne, and
• deeply penetrates into the skin to kill bacteria.

Apply benzoyl peroxide twice a day for 5 days. It will already reduce the acne bacteria by more than 95%! Even clindamycin and erythromycin can’t match this level until after 2 to 3 months.

(Source: A.M. Kligman, “Acne Vulgaris: Tricks and Treatments. Part II: The Benzoyl Peroxide Saga,” Cutis, vol.56, no.2, November 1995, 260.).

You’ve likely heard about the popular Benzoyl Peroxide (BP). Would you believe it was originally used as a fabric bleach? Imagine washing your face with Tide liquid bleach!

Don’t worry, since then BP has been much more refined. Today it is among the most widely used over the counter acne treatment topicals for acne vulgaris or inflammatory acne.

Benzoyl peroxide works by:

• Killing tough acne bacteria deep inside the follicles. Result? Reduced inflammation.
• By decreasing acne bacteria, BP helps to loosen whiteheads and blackheads.
• By drying and exfoliating the skin.

(Source: Preston, Lydia. Breaking Out. New York: Fireside, 2004).

How effective is benzoyl peroxide? Medical evidence shows that:

• BP is highly effective. So far, medical research shows that no other topical antibacterial agent has matched BP. Not even prescription antibiotics!
• BP works faster than prescription antibiotics!
• Bacteria don’t build resistance to BP like with prescription antibiotics.
• BP is even more effective when combined with the topical antibiotic – clindamycin.

(Sources: Kligman, Albert M. “Cosmetics: A Dermatologist Looks to the Future: Promises and Problems.” Derm Climics 18:4, 2000: 699-709. Shalita, Alan R., and Gina A. Taylor. “Benzoyl Peroxide-Based Combination Therapies for Acne Vulgaris”, Am J Clin Dermatol 2004.

J.J. Leyden et al., “Comparison of the Efficacy and Safety of a Combination of Topical Gel Formulation of Benzoyl Peroxide and Clindamycin with Benzoyl Peroxide, Clindamycin and Vehicle Gel in the Treatments of Acne Vulgaris,” American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, vol.2, no.1, 2001, 33-39).

Possible risks or side effects of BP:

• BP is a very harsh chemical. It causes redness, dryness, and scaling.
• Those allergic to it experience blistering, burning, crusting, itching, swelling or severe redness. If you’re allergic, stop using it immediately and see a dermatologist.
• BP (since it is a bleach) can lighten hair color, or fabrics.

Acne Alert: Most bad reactions to BP in over the counter acne treatment products are from overuse.

When used correctly, BP controls common forms of acne. Here’s how to use BP to make it incredibly effective as an over the counter acne treatment :

• Apply it every day.
• Use it all over the area of skin where you usually break out – even if your skin looks clear.
• Once you see a zit appearing, you’re already too late. Redness means your body is fighting bacteria.
• Start with a small amount of BP and be consistent. Use the lowest concentration (2.5%) every 2 days at first. This way you can avoid the drying and irritation of applying too much. Higher concentrations like 5% or 10% have been proven to have the same effect, if not more irritating.
• Work your way up to twice a day as your skin adjusts to the BP.
• If you have dark skin or sensitive skin, expose your skin only a few short minutes to BP like with a mask or cleanser.

Acne Prevention Tip: BP is only effective when used preventatively. It reaches deep within the skin to kill acne bacteria. Once you see acne it’s already too late. Use it on areas prone to acne or times when you expect it to appear (prior to menstrual cycle, upon stressful times, or regularly).

What acne treatment systems use benzoyl peroxide? Some better known names include:

• Proactiv (contains BP at 2.5% concentration in its cleanser and treatment lotion).
• Exposed, and
• DDF Acne Problem Kit, (5% BP and 2.5% salicylic acid), among a few.

If you’re on a budget like me, I highly recommend just buying the cheapest tube of 2.5% BP over the counter acne treatment from your local drugstore. I costs me less than $10, and works extremely well for me, especially during stressful times where I can’t control my acne.

Product Forms of BP:

• Creams, lotions, cleansers, soaps and cleansing lotions.
• Sold in concentrations of 2.5%, 5%, 10%.

Period of time to see results? 8 to 12 weeks. You should already see improvements at 6-8 weeks. I used BP with moderately severe acne, and much of it cleared visibly within 4 weeks.

What is my value for the cost of this over the counter acne treatment? A regular tube of 2.5%, 5%, or 10% BP will cost less than $20 and can last for more than a month depending on how it is used.

Salicylic Acid – the Surface Slougher

• for mild acne and sensitive skin,
• as a cleanser ingredient to slough surface skin cells.
• as an agent that prepares the skin for other acne treatments.

Salicylic acid is over a century old! It was originally discovered as a pain reliever when digested. It later became known as aspirin. Sometimes you’ve got to wonder….

How does salicylic acid work?

Salicylic acid breaks down a protein (keratin) that holds the skin cells together. Over time, it exfoliates old skin and allows new healthy skin to surface. It loosens whiteheads and blackheads (comedones) and helps expel them.

How effective is salicylic acid in over the counter acne treatment products?

Salicylic acid is fairly mild. It does not reach down deep into the skin follicles like benzoyl peroxide. It can take up to 3 months to loosen smaller whiteheads and blackheads. It is not very effective against larger ones, unlike Retin-A. Mild as it may be, this over the counter acne treatment can help to keep your sebaceous follicles free from dead skin cells. It can also reduce the severity of new acne.

As an exfoliant, salicylic acid sloughs away the top layers of the skin. It improves the skins appearance and texture, and prepares your skin for other over the counter acne treatment agents you may be using. Also, it can help reduce the redness of pimples.

However…

Acne Prevention Tip: Salicylic acid works well if you use it over a consistent and long period of time.

Risks or side effects of salicylic acid:

• Some skin peeling, dryness, and irritation when used at concentrations of 2% or greater.
• Possible adverse effects include salicylate toxicity, toxic inner ear damage, and hypersensitivity. Unknown effects in pregnancy.
• Increases skin sensitivity to sunlight (photosensitisation).
• It changes the skin structure and can allow other chemicals to seep deeper into the skin and even the bloodstream.

Acne Alert: As an acne treatment, it is more suited to those with mild acne. For those with moderate to severe acne, salicylic acid is best used as a cleanser to exfoliate the skin.

How to get the most out of a salicylic acid over the counter acne treatment

First of all, how do you find a good product containing salicylic acid that does the job and doesn’t make you break out? Since it doesn’t dissolve in water, many products are formulated with alcohol which can really irritate your skin.

Look for an over the counter acne treatment cleanser with concentrations of 2% salicylic acid, in an acid base with a pH of between 3 and 4. You might have to do some testing since labels don’t always show the pH.

(Source: E. Zander and Weisman, “Treatment of Acne Vulgaris with Salicylic Acid Pads,” Clinical Therapies, vol.14, no.2, March – April 1992, 247-53).

What is my value for the cost of this treatment?

These non-prescriptive over the counter acne treatment products are usually less than $20.

Salicylic acid is most commonly found in over the counter acne treatment cleansers. It is also found in soaps, body washes, scrubs, shampoos, etc.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)

• for all types of skin
• as a mild or strong cleanser, and
• for healing and preventing acne.

AHAs are natural acids which come from fruits, milk sugars, and plants. The following are the major categories of AHAs:

• Glycolic acid – sugar cane
• Lactic acid – milk
• Malic acid – apples and pears
• Citric acid – oranges and lemons
• Tartaric acid – grapes

Glycolic and lactic acids are the most frequently used in over the counter acne treatment products, and are the most well researched AHAs to date.

How do AHAs work? They dissolve the "intercellular glue" that holds together dry dead skin cells. AHA's gently peel away the uppermost layer of dead skin cells. They make way for the smoother, newer skin beneath. There is also evidence that AHA's may stimulate the collagen and elastin fiber growth that keep skin tight and firm, giving it that youthful complexion.

(Source: Holistic Health News; Jan1995, Vol. 3 Issue 1, p3).

Which type of AHA is the most effective? Glycolic acid. It’s the smallest of the AHA molecules. It can penetrate the skin better because of its size. An over the counter acne treatment as a glycolic acid lotion or toner can work as part of an overall acne treatment plan by preparing the skin for other acne products.

Glycolic acid also has moisturizing properties that may help ease the dryness and flaking caused by BP and similar over the counter acne treatment products. And unlike salicylic acid, it is more easily found in alcohol-free products.

(Source: Villarosa, Linda. Essence, Jun93, Vol. 24 Issue 2, p17, 5p, 2c).

How long will this over the counter acne treatment take to work?. You should see results in the texture of your skin within a few weeks.

AHAs work well for black skin pigmentation. AHAs have proved highly successful in eliminating the dark spots left behind by pimples on Black skin without creating side effects.

(Source: Harvard Women’s Health Watch; Jul97, Vol.4 Issue 11, p7).

Companies that make over the counter acne treatment AHA products include Murad, Avon, Elizabeth Arden, Estee Lauder, Prescriptives and others. If your skin is oily, make sure to use a product that is oil-free, with a gel, not an oily, creamy base.

Acne Prevention Tip: Look for a product with a glycolic acid concentration between 8 and 10% and no other active ingredients.

(Source: Dubrow, Terry J., and Brenda A. Adderly. The Acne Cure. Rodale Press, 2003.)

What are the risks or side effects?

• more susceptibility to sunlight,
• fewer AHA products have FDA approval, and
• minor skin irritation or blisters and burns.

What is the value for the cost of this over the counter acne treatment? The cost is between a few dollars to more than $60US depending on the product.

I personally use B. Kamins botanical face cleanser that has glycolic acid as its active ingredient. I highly recommend this organic product. It leaves your skin feeling extremely clean, and its gentle but effective. Being budget oriented, I purchase it online for half the price (approx. $30) you’d find in a beauty salon or skin care center ($60). It lasts me for about 6 months. Very worth it.

Retinol

• works best in high concentrations,
• works when packaged stably, and
• hasn’t really proven its effectiveness for acne.

Retinol is the chemical name for vitamin A – which is the active ingredient in the prescription drug Retin-A, the favored topical prescription acne treatment.

Enzymes in the skin transform retinal it into a chemical called retinaldehyde, which then transforms into trace amounts of retinoic acid. Theoretically, retinol should have similar effects to Retin-A. But this is still unclear.

What is the effectiveness of retinal?

Retinol’s role as an acne treatment isn’t quite clear.

Also, retinol is very unstable and difficult to package so that it maintains its effectiveness.

How to get the most out of retinal

If the acne treatment product:

1. has a high enough retinal concentration, and
2. it is stabilized,

However, there are hundreds of products out there with only a splash of retinal, and most of them don’t work.

What is the value for the cost of this over the counter acne treatment? The active ingredient retinal, in an acne treatment, will cost anywhere from $10 to $45US (depending on treatment, creams, moisturizers).

Sulfur and Resorcinol

How does the treatment work?

Basically, sulfur kills acne bacteria. Because of its ability to soften and peel flaky skin, it’s also used for other skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis and scabies. Resorcinol helps shed the outer layer of skin, and increases the effect of sulfur. However, experts aren’t entirely sure how it works in combination with sulfur.

How effective are sulfur and resorcinol?

Resorcinol alone is not an effective acne treatment. It can be very irritating to some patients, and it may even discolor dark or black skin, so sensitive and dark-skinned patients are usually advised to avoid products containing it.

For those who can’t use BP or Retin-A, sulfur may be a good alternative.

Products containing sulfur are great for spot treatments.

What are the risks or side effects?

The side effects are minor: dryness and unpleasant odour. It’s not recommended for pregnant women unless their doctor prescribes resorcinol.

There are no major known adverse effects in resorcinol’s combination with sulfur.

Everyone is different

If you want to use the most effective over the counter acne treatment products, be sure to include the following:

• A cleanser containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid.
• A leave-on benzoyl product which you may wear moisturizer or make up overtop. If it’s too irritating, get a BP wash that you leave on for at least a couple minutes./li>

Products are more effective if they can be left on the skin to do their work.

As a general rule of thumb, OTC drugs should work within 6 to 8 weeks. If they don’t work within 10 weeks and even promote breakouts, see a dermatologist.

Now you have enough knowledge to look for effective skin products, as well as how to use them to use them the right way.

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